ABSTRACT:

Embark on the adventurous ride of a seminary student from the States, as he ventures into the holy mosque of Imam Hassan Askari (AS) in Qom, where even the prayer rugs have tales to tell and the pigeons are as wise as the most well-versed scholars. During my three-day I'tikaf in the mosque, I boarded a journey of self-discovery and spiritual reflection. Fasting and praying allowed me to deepen my connection with God, while also reflecting on the wisdom of the Holy Quran. Despite dealing with the unforeseen, the experience was filled with moments of insight and satisfaction. Navigating the busy queues of ablution to pondering the messages of my rumbling stomach, each moment brought its own blend of reflection.

AUTHOR:

Syed Muhammad Ali Jaffery

REVIEW:

Seminary Translation and Publication Center

بِسْمِ اللَّـهِ الرَّحْمَـٰنِ الرَّحِيمِ

In the name of Allah S.W.T., the most beneficent, and the most merciful

1..وَأَنتُمْ عَاكِفُونَ فِي الْمَسَاجِدِ..

While you are secluded in the masjid

In the ever-changing landscape of our world, where many struggle to recognize their true worth, there exists a sacred haven for introspection: I’tikaf. Amidst the hustle and bustle of life, this sanctuary of spiritual retreat offers a profound opportunity for self-discovery. Here, in the serene depths of contemplation, we can connect with our inner selves and unearth the divine essence within us. I’tikaf, akin to a spiritual pilgrimage, grants us the privilege of delving into our souls, allowing us to realize our inherent value and core purpose. Through this sacred practice, we can cultivate self-awareness, nurture our spirits, and embark on a journey of self-transformation, guided by the light of holy enlightenment.

In the Islamic year of 1445 i.e. 2024, during the sacred month of Rajab. I was bestowed with the profound opportunity to partake in I’tikaf within the sanctified walls of the Imam Hassan Askari (AS) Masjid. Nestled in the heart of Qom, the revered city, this divine sanctuary stands as a beacon of spiritual solace, situated opposite the hallowed shrine of Lady Fatima Masooma (peace be upon her).

Python of I’tikaf:

Initially, the idea of diving into I’tikaf felt like a daunting challenge. It entailed bedding down on the ground in a crowded space, fasting with humble meals, adhering to eating schedules, battling worldly temptations, ceasing from needless talks, maintaining discipline, and abstaining from electronic devices, in addition to disconnecting from the outside world for three consecutive days.2 Nevertheless, I had been procrastinating on spending quality time with God for quite some time. I would have taken on this challenge without much thought, but the bigger question looming over me was whether I could survive the chaos and unpredictability that the I’tikaf squad might throw my way. And oh boy, did it deliver! 

As the day of I’tikaf approached, I found myself increasingly anxious about the lack of information. Despite assurances of details being shared in our social media group, I felt like a lost duckling searching for its mother. With plans to sneak into the masjid just before Fajr prayers, I was hit with the realization that the doors slammed shut at midnight, as stated on the entrance ticket. Time suddenly felt like it was slipping through my fingers faster than water down a drain. Hastily packing my bags, I consoled myself with the thought that if all else failed, Islamic law would offer me an escape hatch from I’tikaf, like a safety net for the spiritually challenged.

I decided to reach out to my coordinator for clarification, seeking reassurance amid my growing concerns. His response offered some clarity; while arriving before Fajr was permissible, the masjid's management had strict regulations in place. He advised me to aim for an earlier arrival, preferably before midnight, to circumvent any potential issues. Reflecting on his advice, I couldn't shake the memory of his previous recommendation to park at the Haram's Parkade, adjacent to Lady Fatima Masooma's shrine. Little did I know then that this seemingly convenient suggestion would end up costing me significantly more than anticipated, akin to the fare of five cab rides.

Taming the Logistical Beast:

As I began my I’tikaf journey, I realized I was about as prepared as a squirrel without its nuts for winter. I had grand plans of packing paper towels, and eating a healthy meal before I departed, but somehow ended up forgetting the napkins and scarfing down four greasy slices of pizza instead for lack of choices. As I bid farewell to my family and stepped out of my high-rise apartments, I was greeted by the darkness of a burnt-out light bulb. It was like the universe was telling me, "Good luck finding your way, buddy!". I hopped into my car and set off towards the Haram, clueless about the location of the elusive Parkade. After a series of wrong turns and some questionable directions from the guards, I finally managed to find the parking spot, farther away from the masjid than I would have anticipated. I had to walk through the bazaar, ask a few shopkeepers, and ten to fifteen minutes' walk with my carry-on took me to the masjid.

Outside the masjid, chaos reigned. Hundreds of people stood in disorderly queues. Individuals dressed in security uniforms, with radios directing people. I joined the shortest line, only to find it quickly swelling with others seeking entry. Then, one of the security guards yelled:

"کسانی که تلفن همراه دارند قبل از اینکه در صف قرار بگیرند باید تلفن همراه خود را تحویل دهند"

"Those with cellphones must turn them in before they get into the clearance line!"

I anticipated this one, but I had expected a more lucid explanation. Without many options at my disposal, I quickly complied with the call. I jumped out of the queue with a burst of energy, I confidently informed the security guard that I'd return after surrendering my cell phone. Hastily leaving my spot, I joined another queue, which turned out to be much longer and chaotic. While only one person was collecting phones and another was filling out receipts, there were six to ten personnel inspecting luggage. Despite the chilly weather, I was only in a light jacket, making the wait seem even longer. I took this opportunity and made quick calls to inform my family, also grabbed some pictures of worshipers entering the mosque, the image below. After about forty minutes, I finally reached the cell phone collection point and handed it over. Upon returning to the clearance queue, I found a new security guard and had to start at the back again. Thirty more minutes passed before I could step into the revered Imam Hassan Askari (AS) masjid.

The Great Mosque:

Imam Hassan Askari (AS) Masjid is yet another stunning representation of Persian artistic tradition. The walls are adorned with verses from the Holy Quran, elegantly written in Persian calligraphy, adding to the mystical ambiance. The architecture gives the feeling of an Islamic holy place. The colorful windows and domes increase the beauty of the masjid, creating a serene atmosphere for worship and reflection, the image below. Additionally, the masjid is divided into various sections, each serving its distinct purpose, catering to the needs of worshippers. The main entrance to the spacious hall designated for the Mutakifeen (people engaged in I’tikaf) was bustling with activity, nearly at capacity. Beyond this hall lies an expansive open courtyard, serving as a gathering spot for performing ablutions and enjoying a refreshing cup of tea. At the heart of the courtyard stands a graceful fountain, its waters adding to the tranquility of the surroundings. Flanking the courtyard are two additional halls and a basement, all reserved for the Mutakifeen. A few extra rounds inside the masjid, and I found my own spot. Places were numbered. Each person was supposed to be at their respective place. There were some empty spots soon to be taken by those searching for better places. I located my spot in the basement, which predominantly housed scholars and seminary students. 

Just like everyone else who had already made themselves comfortable, there I was, setting up my makeshift bed with a single layer of blanket on the floor. Lo and behold, the only blanket available happened to be a striking shade of pink! My wife assured me it was the only clean one she could find. So, there I was, embracing my inner pink panther, setting up camp with a bedsheet that was thankfully less pink. Surprisingly, nobody questioned my rosy sleeping arrangements, not even when I pulled out my sparkly bag of essentials. Either they were practicing the ancient art of I’tikaf, or they simply didn't want to acknowledge the overpowering pinkness of it all!

Hustling and Bustling into Day One:

It was quite busy and noisy, a mix of hundreds of people engaged in different activities. Some were already deep in prayer or reading the Holy Quran, while others chatted away, not quite in the I’tikaf spirit yet. People come with different goals to I’tikaf: fulfilling a vow, self-reflection, making up for missed obligatory prayers, building community, contemplation of the Holy Quran, seeking pause from the external world, or just catching up on sleep. Thankfully, I wasn’t in the last category, lol. I had a chance encounter with a friend from Africa, dressed in a pristine white dishdasha. We exchanged greetings and reminisced about the Arabic class we had taken together. On one side of my bed was an Indian seminary student, and finally, on the other side was a tight-knit group of Iranian friends, comprising both adults and youth. As the night wore on, everyone stayed up until the early hours of Fajr Sadiq (twilight). Suhoor (pre-dawn meal) was served, with queues of Mutakifeen patiently awaiting their share of food. The lines moved swiftly as tickets were stamped and meals distributed, the image below. Each box containing a mix of rice and lentils paired with a serving of yogurt. 

With the call to prayer, we all gathered for congregational prayers, while some opted for Farada (solo) prayers. As the hall lights dimmed, everyone settled in for some much-needed rest, embracing both moments of ease and discomfort, the floor beneath us served as a humble reminder of the sacrifices we make in our pursuit of spiritual connection. Despite the challenges of makeshift accommodations, the sense of purpose and devotion permeated the air, uniting us in our shared journey of faith, the image below.

Whispers of Prayers:

After a few hours of sleep, I was prepared to seize the opportunity to engage in acts of worship and reflection, donning the simple attire of an Iranian-style white shirt and pajamas, albeit lacking in fashionable flair. As the masjid slowly came to life with the soft shuffle of feet and hushed whispers of prayers. I immersed myself in the timeless rituals of I’tikaf. Most Mutakifeen are still ensconced in the blissful embrace of sleep. I embarked on my makeup prayers, seeking to fortify my connection with the Divine before the day unfolded before us. Each whispered supplication, each prostration, became a testament to the unwavering commitment to seeking closeness to Allah SWT, the true essence of I’tikaf. Any doubt arose, I banished it from my thoughts, reminding myself that within the sacred confines of the masjid, all actions are laid bare before the Almighty, devoid of any pretense or ulterior motive. Each moment spent in worship brought me closer to my Creator. For within these walls, amidst the symphony of devotion and reverence, where the soul finds comfort, and the heart finds peace.

الَّذِينَ آمَنُوا وَتَطْمَئِنُّ قُلُوبُهُم بِذِكْرِ اللَّهِ ۗ أَلَا بِذِكْرِ اللَّهِ تَطْمَئِنُّ الْقُلُوبُ3.

Those who have believed and whose hearts are assured by the remembrance of Allah. Unquestionably, by the remembrance of Allah hearts are assured." 

Feeling the weight of exhaustion settling in, I made the conscious decision to grant myself a break. I opened the pages of the Holy Quran, ready to immerse myself once more in its timeless wisdom. Starting from the second Juz (part), I continued the journey of recitation. My soul finding solace in each verse. Having already completed the recitation of the first part before the break of dawn, I found myself seamlessly transitioning into the rhythm of the sacred text, Alhamdulillah. By this time, all the Mutakifeen were busy with their prayers. 

Visiting Scholars and Breaking Fast:

Esteemed scholars and officials are scheduled to visit the masjid over the three days of I’tikaf, with a packed schedule from 11 AM to 2 AM comprising speeches, prayers, and poetry sessions. Today, on the 13th of Rajab, the birth anniversary of Imam Ali (AS), our revered teacher, Ayatullah Mohsin Araki (may Allah SWT protect him), graced us with his presence. His heartfelt words about God's blessings moved us deeply, emphasizing the privilege of participating in I’tikaf amidst life's constraints. He shared his deeply personal connection with God, moving himself to tears. Addressing us as fortunate participants of I’tikaf, he highlighted the longing of many who are unable to join due to life's obligations. Feeling doubly fortunate, I reflected on my luck in securing a spot last night, deepening my gratitude and understanding of I’tikaf's significance.

After completing the prayers, I retired to my bed for a brief rest, following the Iranian tradition of taking a short nap in the afternoon, before returning to the recitation of the Holy Quran. Others also found themselves drifting off to sleep after the Zuhrain Prayers. The opportunity to immerse myself in uninterrupted Quranic recitation filled me with immense joy. An hour before Maghribain, meals consisting of fruits and sweets were distributed, alongside ready supplies of Iranian tea and boiled water in the courtyards. However, individuals were required to bring their own cups for these beverages: by chance, I had one.

The Fast officially concluded around 6 PM, and by 7:30 PM, everyone had completed their meals and enjoyed a cup of tea. With renewed energy, the Mutakifeen resumed their prayers, continuing their spiritual journey into the night. 

Thirteenth Rajab Celebrations & Tensions:

By 10:00 PM, a group of Pakistani students began reciting poetry in praise of Imam Ali (AS) in the Urdu dialect. Despite their small numbers compared to the crowded hall of 100 to 150 Mutakifeen, their passionate recitation attracted attention. Seated nearby, engrossed in Quranic recitation, I couldn't help but notice the rising volume of their poetry, leading to a request from the I’tikaf squad to lower it.

As tensions simmered, one poet rose, delivering a moving interpretation of Imam Ali's (AS) persona. Meanwhile, having finished my Pakistani tea, brought by seminary students from the West, I retreated to my bed nearby, feeling the emotional weight of the poetry.

As the performance continued, the audience swelled, with Mutakifeen from both Eastern and Western backgrounds drawn to the mesmerizing poetry. Canadian and U.S. students leaped into the poetic fray, eager to showcase their prowess and prove that maple syrup and hamburgers aren't their only specialties. Despite further management requests to cease, the poets held sway over the hall, transporting us to a realm of spiritual bliss. The words of the Prophet (PBUH) for Imam Ali (AS)

لَحْمُکَ مِنْ لَحْمى،وَ دَمُکَ مِنْ دَمى، وَ سِلْمُکَ سِلْمى، وَ حَرْبُکَ حَرْبى، وَالْإیمانُ مُخالِطٌ لَحْمَکَ وَ دَمَکَ کَما خالَطَ لَحْمى وَ دَمى4. 

Your flesh is from my flesh, and your blood is from my blood, and your peace is my peace, and your war is my war, and faith is mixed with your flesh and blood just as it is mixed with my flesh and blood.

For the next hour or two, we were enraptured by the poetry, with additional poets joining in to enrich the experience. It was an indescribable moment, uniting us in shared appreciation. As the night waned, the I’tikaf crew expressed gratitude for the moving poetry session, promising Pakistani tea in fifteen minutes. These were truly unforgettable moments of I’tikaf.

Day Two, Masjid’s History, Feast & Eulogy: 

After the poetry session concluded, prayers and supplications resumed, continuing until 2 AM. The lights were dimmed for a few hours, and Sahur was served as before. Following the prayers, everyone retired to rest until the morning, which began much like the previous day. This time, we were honored by the presence of another esteemed scholar who reiterated the significance of I’tikaf.

Following his speech, I joined the congregation in the main hall for the Zuhrain prayers. Later in the afternoon, a visiting scholar from Bahrain, humbled by the opportunity to address the Mutakifeen, delivered a poignant message in eloquent Arabic. He shared insights from history, emphasizing the importance of the Imam Hassan Askari (AS) masjid in our spiritual journey.

According to historical accounts, the original structure of the Imam Hassan Askari (AS) Masjid was built upon the instructions of Imam Hassan Askari (AS) himself during the third lunar century. The masjid was established by the skilled hands of Ahmad Ibn Ishaq Qomi. Over time, the masjid has served as a prominent center for learning and contemplation, attracting senior scholars from Qom who sought to deepen their understanding of Islamic teachings within its walls. Its rich history and significance as a hub for spiritual and scholarly pursuits continue to resonate with believers to this day.5

My seminary mates had invited me to a multi-cultural feast Iftar. I performed Maghrib prayers, departed from my hall with the meal I received, and got to the mesmerizing main hall of the masjid. There I had my classmates, blended with locals preparing for Iftar. I must admit it was a generous feast and also shared with the ones near us. I thanked God, and my mates for the meal. We prayed for the less privileged, and deceased ones before I got back to my modest hall.

The eulogy in honor of the revered Lady Zainab (SA) was in progress. The atmosphere was heavy with sorrow as all the Mutakifeen mourned the injustices inflicted upon her. According to most accounts, she passed away on the 15th of Rajab, enduring the hardships following the tragedy of Karbala. The same group of poets who had recited the day before now transitioned into delivering a heartfelt khutba commemorating the passing of Lady Zainab. Following the khutba, the solemnity deepened as SenaZani (Chest Beating) commenced. A sign of protest, and expressing grief: The Old Noha (eulogy) was recited, evoking a profound emotional response from nearly half of the Mutakifeen. 

Meeting With a Man of God (عبد الله):

Amidst this atmosphere, I struck up a conversation with a Man of God, whose steadfast recitation of the Holy Quran had left a lasting impression on me. He was wearing a light blue shaded Shalwar Kameez, traditional Pakistani/Afghan clothing. With a white Imama (turban) over his head, a long white beard, and a wrinkled, tanned face, he exudes simplicity and a sense of high spirituality. Despite his age and the discomfort of sleeping on the rug near the entrance door, he displayed remarkable patience and resilience, embodying the essence of devotion and perseverance. The noise and cold winter breeze that the Mutakifeen brings with them every time they enter through the hall door would not be appreciated by many of us. In our conversation, the Sheikh shared insights into the historical significance of the masjid, indicating that one of the halls in the courtyard might be the original masjid based on historical accounts. Intrigued, I posed some Fiqhi questions to him, seeking to deepen my understanding. I inquired curiously about his origins, to which he replied, "Afghanistan."

As our conversation unfolded, I pondered aloud about the parallels between I’tikaf and Hajj, wondering how they are alike. In parting, the sheikh expressed his aspiration for me to reach the esteemed status of a Mujtahid. I humbly acknowledged the difficulty of such a feat, given my background as an IT Professional, and relatively new to the seminary. Yet, the Sheikh remained optimistic, assuring me that with dedication, it could be achieved in ten years. 

Grateful for his guidance, I bid him farewell and returned to my bed, where the anticipation of departure lingered among the Mutakifeen as the night wore on.

The Angel Wears Gucci:

Amidst the solemnity of I’tikaf, I found myself inadvertently caught in a peculiar situation. Adjacent to me, two Iranians engaged in arm wrestling, with the older participant emerging victorious over his younger counterpart, the image below. I'm certain that others observing would have enjoyed it as much as I did, perhaps with some eye rolls. My brief chat with them hinted that they weren't particularly fond of seminary students either. Their subsequent conversation filled the air, accompanied by the presence of one of their shoes placed uncomfortably close to me. Despite my subtle attempts to distance myself from the odor, the shoe's placement persisted, shifting with each departure and return of its owner. Feeling mildly discomforted by the situation, I hesitated to voice my concerns, mindful of the cultural norms. Instead, I chose to view it as a test of patience and resilience within the confines of I’tikaf. Their ingenuity likely aided them in sneaking in their cell phones, providing them with a source of entertainment during the event. Additionally, they seemed to have access to a wider variety of food options compared to the rest of us, adding to their comfort. Their participation in these sacred rituals was not only notable but also seemed to carry an adventurous spirit.

However, as the hours passed, a sense of concern crept in, exacerbated by the absence of communication with my family. Bound by the rules prohibiting phone usage during I’tikaf, and lacking the foresight to note down contact information, I remained disconnected from the outside world, navigating the solitude of the retreat in contemplative silence.

The Last Day of I’tikaf & Amal of Umme Dawood:

The final day of I’tikaf unfolded precisely as anticipated. Commencing with the recitation of the Holy Quran, the atmosphere was electrified, but not by any ordinary reciter. No, this individual possessed a rare gift, reviving even the most dormant souls with his mesmerizing recitation. Standing in stark contrast to his peers, he garnered immense praise and admiration from all those present. Later, another renowned scholar arrived and shared words of wisdom. The Imam of Friday prayer in Qom, Ayatullah Syed Muhammad Saeedi, also visited us and shared his sentiments for not being able to perform I’tikaf himself. It was said that this masjid is the best place for I’tikaf in the country. In addition, the Amal of Umme Dawood was performed. It is the most important part of this day. It is very effective for meeting needs, removing hardships, and warding off the oppression of the oppressors. After Zuhrain prayers, we faced the Qiblah and recited Surah Hamad a hundred times, Surah Tawheed a hundred times, and Ayat al-Kursi ten times, then the following chapters were recited in order: An'am, Bani Israel (Isra'), Kahf, Luqman, Yaseen, Safat, Fussilat, Sajdah, Shura, Dukhan, Fatah, Waqea, Malik, Al Qalam, Inshiqaq, and after that Al Burooj till the end of the Qur'an, closing with Dua Umme Dawood and supplication.6 Mutakifeen remained busy with the Holy Quran’s recitation from Zuhrain till Mughribain, which amounts to a solid five hours without budging, the image below.

Adios and Escape Plan Initiation:

I felt a sense of accomplishment as I successfully completed the Amaal, feeling energized and grateful. I bid farewell to my I’tikaf comrades, seminary students, including the Afghani Sheikh whose wisdom and patience had impressed me. With my trusty pink blanket and bedsheet packed snugly into a sparkly bag (because who says spirituality can't sparkle?), I embarked on the epic journey back to the parking lot. While the return journey went smoothly, my exit strategy hit a speed bump when I realized I was short on cash for the grand parking fee. In a hilarious twist of fate, I ended up negotiating with the parking attendant like a bargain-hungry traveler at a bustling bazaar, promising to settle the bill later while making a mental note to bring a coin bank for future spiritual expeditions. As I stepped outside the masjid after I’tikaf, I couldn't shake off the feeling that I had just completed a spiritual odyssey akin to Hajj. Everything around me seemed unchanged, yet I knew deep down that I had been transformed.

Introspection, and Spiritual Rejuvenation:

Returning home, I was greeted warmly by my family, whose absence I had keenly felt during my time of introspection. Despite the joy of reunion, it didn't take long for us to slip back into the routine of daily life.

As the days since my I’tikaf experience slip away, I find myself reluctant to re-enter the hustle and bustle of the world. The serene connection I cultivated with Allah SWT during those days of total surrender now feels threatened by the distractions and challenges of everyday life.

The world, with its mix of truth and falsehood, has a way of masking our true selves and pulling us away from our spiritual center. Yet, those with unwavering faith persevere, returning time and again to the sanctuaries of Allah SWT to fortify their bond.

It's a constant struggle to resist the allure of worldly distractions and maintain the purity of our souls. But for those who remain steadfast, the journey back to Allah SWT's is a journey worth taking, time and time again.

وَأَدعُو لَهُما بِالرَّحمَةِ وَالمَغفِرَة

References:

1. Holy Quran (2:187).

2. Bhimji, S. I'tikaf, The Spiritual Retreat. Retrieved from https://www.al-islam.org/: https://www.al-islam.org/articles/itikaf-spiritual-retreat-saleem-bhimji

3. Holy Quran (13:28).

4. Abbas, I. Fountains of affection-ينابيع الموده. Page 55.

5. Faqihi, A. A.-ع. (2007-1386). The Religious History of Qom: The Comprehensive History of Qom-تاریخ مذهبی قم: تاریخ جامع قم. Qom: Zayer- زائر.

6. Sadouq, S. Virtues of Al-Ashhoor Al-Thalatha-فضائل الاَشهُر الثَّلاثه.